"Ultimate Predator Protection and Control
for Sheep and Goats"
By Connie Krider
(webmasters note: This article written by Connie Krider has been published in numerious publications and magazines. Good job Connie)
In 1977, my husband, David, and I acquired our first of many hundreds of goats that we have raised over the years since. A little over a decade later, we added sheep to our program. We found internal parasites, predators and containment to be the major concerns with both species. We started using the FAMACHA method of checking the lower eye lid to estimate anemia levels for de-worming, or at least a slight variation of that method. That was before we knew there was a name for it, but not before spending a considerable amount of unnecessary money and contributing to the problem of immunity build-up in worms to commercial de-wormers that exists today. Our best luck with parasite control has come through a combination of multi-species and management intensive grazing practices. For predator control we have relied mainly on guard dogs. At one time we tried a gelded male donkey. He was fine with the adult sheep, but when they started lambing, he thought it his mission to put the noisy little intruders out of their (or more accurately, his) misery. We later learned that a jenny would probably have worked out much better, but decided to stick with the dogs. And last, but definitely not the least of our concerns, has been fencing to contain the determined little animals. Additionally, keeping dogs fenced in, or out, has posed as much of a dilemma as controlling the sheep and goats.
Sheep seem relatively easy to keep behind fences when compared to goats. From our experience with grazing cattle, horses, sheep and goats, the latter are by far the most difficult to keep fenced in or out. We learned that electric fencing is considerably more effective than other types of fencing when it comes to controlling goats. Barbed wire fences seem merely an inconvenience for them. Woven wire “field fence” can serve as a ladder until they ride it down to a more manageable height where they can hop over it. The spaces in heavy wire panels seem to work similar to a catch gate, especially for the horned animals. It’s always much harder to get their heads out than for them to get their heads in. And, it can also be handy for climbing on. We found that by adding even one strand of hi-tensile wire with 7,000 or more volts running through it, all other fences became more functional.
Affordable cost for the fencing is also a top consideration. Over the years, we’ve learned that the best way to make a profit with livestock is to keep overhead costs as low as possible. Five to seven strands of hi-tensile smooth wire has proven to be the most cost effective and reliable when electrified. We learned to keep the bottom wire no more than 6” from the ground. Our observations have revealed that the first choice for goats in their efforts to escape from fencing is to go under, second choice is through, and last choice is to go over. When they’re familiar with electrified fencing, jumping over is even less of an option because it appears they are unsure of how high that pain barrier will go.
Within the past few years, we feel we have finally found the most perfect combination of fencing products for sheep and goats. We put electrifiable 12.5 gauge hi-tensile woven wire on PowerFlex posts. Because some of our animals are in a spot where we aren’t always able to check on them daily, we like to electrify the woven wire. The woven wire comes in other tighter configurations, but we prefer the one that is 36 inches high with 7 horizontal wires and 24 inches between the vertical wires. It has a cost advantage while maintaining effectiveness. By using PowerFlex posts for our line posts, we eliminate any problems with electrical shorts, rusting, rotting, sun degradation, splintering, insect infestation or breaking. The self-insulated PowerFlex posts are made of 30% wood fiber and 70% polypropylene. Because of the orientation process used to produce these posts, they are lightweight, yet strong and flexible. PowerFlex posts come in 3 approximate diameters, 1-1/8”, 1-1/4” and 1-5/8”. I say approximate because, similar to wood posts, there are very slight variations with each post. The standard lengths range from 48 inches to 72 inches, in 6 inch intervals. The standard colors are white, black, hickory and saddle (brown). When installing the hi-tensile woven wire on PowerFlex posts, the size we use is 1-1/4” diameter by 60” length. They are driven into the ground about 12 inches. The same “post-pounder” used for putting in T-posts works well for pounding in PowerFlex posts. Here in the Ozarks, our ground is extremely rocky in spots. In those areas, we use a pilot driver to start the holes. Our posts have held well by putting them in the ground a foot, but if our ground was soft, we’d probably go up to 66 inch posts and put them in the ground another 6 inches, for a total of 18” in the ground. In relatively flat areas, the posts can be spaced about 30 feet apart. As with any fence, the end and corner posts must be strong and well constructed. We like to use Hedge posts for our corners and ends. Also referred to in some areas as Osage Orange or Bois D’Arc, Hedge is an extremely hard wood which because it is so dense does not draw electricity from your fence like other woods. Insulators are good insurance, but there is far less fear of accidental shorts with Hedge. Welded pipe end and corner systems are also a good choice. When installed correctly, we find both H-braces and floating braces to be strong and reliable. Once the corners are in place, we string a guide wire near the bottom of the posts from corner to corner to make sure the line posts are positioned in a straight line. That wire is then left in place as a ground wire. Since we plan to leave the guide wire as part of the structure of the fence, we use 12.5 gauge hi-tensile wire for its strength and longevity. Then, we raise the woven wire up 6 to 7 inches from that. That helps to keep the grass load from drawing power out of the fence and anything trying to go in or out touches both a ground wire and the hot woven wire. This new fencing system not only takes the worry out of keeping our livestock in, but also keeping predators out. And, it is relatively easy to install. Best of all, the PowerFlex posts have a twenty year warranty and the hi-tensile wire product has a life expectancy even longer than that.
Once the fence is in place, the only thing left to consider is an energizer to add a psychological barrier to the physical barrier. We chose a Stafix 20 joule energizer based on the amount of wire we want to keep electrified and the potential grass load it will carry. Energizers are measured in joule ratings. As a rule of thumb, for every 5 miles of clean wire, one joule is required. For 30 miles of wire, it would require 6 joules. But, since there is rarely a completely clean fence line, it seems to work best to go at least one size energizer up from there. We use to think the label on the energizer box was accurate, but we learned that in real life application we were better off sticking to our rule of thumb formula. Another rule of thumb that we follow is for every joule rating on the energizer it requires at least 3 feet of grounding. Ten six foot ground rods placed about 10 feet apart allows the 20 joule energizer to perform at capacity.
With our busy lifestyle we are always looking for top quality, low maintenance products and livestock. We are in the process of importing Damara embryos from Australia to add to our flock of St. Croix, Katahdin, Dorper cross sheep. We feel that will be the final genetics needed for our Easy Care breed of sheep. But, that is another story.
And for now, we sleep peacefully knowing that our sheep and goats have ultimate protection. For more information on the Sheep & Goat Guardian fencing system, you can go to www.powerflexfence.com or the phone number is 417-741-1230.
(photographs below, by Powerflex)
Hi-tensile woven wire and PowerFlex posts make a secure fencing system for sheep and goats. This is the 7-36-24 woven wire. The picture makes the vertical stays look closer, but the right side corner of the page shows it more accurately.
Throughout the duration of the massive ice storms in southern
Missouri the fence stood straight as the day it was installed.
.This photo shows how the stretcher bars are used.
Here is another shot of the stretcher bar in use with the
Mule End System. It woudl work the same with any
traditional end or corner.
Hi Tensile woven wire on a floating corner brace system.
