Tire Tank Installation Guide
We at Powerflex Fence get a lot of calls asking for guidelines or suggestions for "HOW TO" install a tire tank. There are several guidelines on the internet. Some of them are very good. There are many different ways to plumb the tank as well as many choices for the valve that you may choose to use. The tires will vary greatly in profile. This article has been prepared to help you understand the basics of installing a tire tank. This is the way we install ours -- with the inlet line inside a stand pipe. We feel that it adds some flexibility, should anything ever move. Thanks to Steve and Judy Freeman for taking the time to photograph this installation in segments. Hope it helps you with the concept.
The topsoil has been removed and the site leveled,
with the supply line in place as well as the 3” drain line.
Above. a close up view of the installed plumbing.
(note: this really is Ozark Topsoil!)
The site is now ready for the tire.
(You will have already cut the top bead off of the tire)
The tire is gently placed over the plumbing
The tire is in place.
The tire is leveled. Note the bar and chain used to lift the tire.
A 6” PVC pipe is installed over the supply line. This pipe should
be tall enough that it’s cap will be above the level of the concrete.
Note the screws which are placed around the pipe to help anchor
it in the concrete.
This is a close-up of the screws used to help anchor
the 6” pipe in the concrete.
The plumbing is now ready for concrete. The drain line has a tall piece
of pipe inserted to prevent concrete from entering. This pipe will
be cut down to just above the water level when completed.
The concrete is mixed in a tub. Another view of the tall pipe
used to protect the drain from concrete.
The concrete is poured. This is a 7’ tire and it took 12 sacks of
concrete mix.
Rebar hooks are installed to pick up the tank, should it ever need
to be moved.
The concrete is finished, even (flush) with the bead on the tire.
The concrete is cured and has been sealed with a
concrete based paint (optional).
Flexible pipe is attached to supply line within the 6” pipe.
This shows the flexible supply line and a cap with ¾” hole drilled
for the float.
The valve being installed on to the cap.
This is the underside of the cap showing the attachment of the valve.
Be sure your float valve comes complete with a long tail to thread
through the cap. (Item #XF34LT)
This is the male fitting that attaches the valve to the flexible hose.
(available from a local hardware store)
The cap is put in place with the valve and float attached.
The plumbing is complete........
......and the water is turned on.
Filling the tank.
So that nothing will be broken should the tire ever need to be moved,
a 4” drain line is slipped over the 3” drain pipe coming from
under the tire.
The drain line is in place.
Backfill and you are ready for livestock !
As, I mentioned at the beginning of this article, there are many different ways to lay out your plumbing. For example, if you have a tire that doesn't have a lot of height -- then this plumbing example below will put your valve down on the bottom of the tank, giving you a little more room for your float.
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